Go over the Grande Bosse and the Petite Bosse (which, confusingly enough, is the higher of the two), and follow the stunning and exposed snow ridge to the summit, staying mainly on the west side of the ridge. 2 – 2.5 hours from the Nid d'Aigle. That is a reasonable difficulty for crevassed route. Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif ticklist.
The ridge divides the Griaz and Tete Rousse glaciers, but both have shrunk considerably in recent years and are not especially attractive, although the rest of the scenery around here is excellent.If you are stopping at the Tete Rousse hut, cross the Tete Rousse Glacier easily to reach the refuge (crampons may be necessary). The danger of getting frostbites is very high!According to a sign I saw posted on Aiguille du Midi, at the exit to the "haute montagne" area, persons can set up tents pretty much any place they choose on the mountain, free of charge, provided the tents are up after sunset and down before sunrise. 7 – 8 hours from the Cosmiques hut.Remember the old truism that at the summit you're only halfway to safety. Mont Blanc will be here long after we're all gone, so take your time and achieve it when conditions, weather and your ability align. The second part of the ascend route to the "Epaule" is exposed : long steep snow/ice slope over some big serac cliffs. The route varies from year to year, often from month to month, but the line usually goes roughly from the bottom left of the face to the top right, reaching the NW shoulder of Mont Blanc du Tacul in roughly 2 – 3 hours from the hut. Follow these to the now disused old Gouter hut, which is now completely locked up, but which does have a fantastic view of the route you will just have completed. Au départ de Saint-Gervais, on monte tout d'abord par le TMB (Tramway du Mont-Blanc) pour rejoindre le Nid d'Aigle. You will however need the following things –As with all skills, these are often best learned from an expert, so don't be afraid of paying a guide or an instructor for a day or two to teach you. The usual meeting point for this program is Chamonix. Basic questions such as "what kit do I need?" From the cable car of the Aiguille du Midi, you can reach the refuge by descending about 300 meters (45 mn). The crux step on the Trois Monts can be abseiled (2 x 20 metre abseils), and the Gouter descent does not require any abseils. Generally the terrain is low angled (roughly 20 – 30 degrees), and straightforward.The summit arrives suddenly, and after the snow slope below, it is very welcome! On the downside, the ascents of Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit are threatened by serac fall, and fatal accidents do occur.From the Aiguille du Midi, descend the famous snow arête that makes up the Midi E ridge, before turning back west and reach the Cosmiques hut in 40 minutes, having passed under the beautiful south face of the Midi.After an early breakfast in the hut, cross the Col du Midi plateau and climb the NW face of Mont Blanc du Tacul. Staying at the Tete Rousse has two main advantages: a) it is quieter and therefore easier to get a reservation (and a good night's sleep!) For example, the Some of them are:It was probablely done by members of Hudson-Kennedy expedition August 8 1855.The second longuest Glacier in the Alps after Aletsch Glacier is descending from Mont Blanc du Tacul to Chamonix Valley.The highest part of it is named Glacier du Géant and Vallée Blanche (White Valley) and the part from ice fall to the end is named Mer de Glace (Ice sea)There is no seasonal closure. All rights reserved. By now dawn should have broken, and you will find yourself in some seriously impressive terrain – the phrase "big country" was invented for places like this! This can be in a small way or in a larger package that includes discounted products from our sister-publishing company Rockfax.If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. No one seemed to care and I certainly did not see anyone out there performing official duties, fining campers, or ordering them to depart the area. Numbers in notes below relate to the route numbers in the book. Good luck!UKClimbing is a vibrant web site with rich content and an amazing community. The Trois Monts takes roughly 4 - 5 hours to descend to the Aiguille du Midi, and the Gouter roughly the same back to the Nid d'Aigle. As for boots you could get away with B2 boots, but for optimal warmth and performance B3 is the way to go.Quantifying these two things is extremely difficult, although in simple terms the fitter and more acclimatized you are, the better. You will be quicker (and therefore safer from any risk of getting caught in bad weather or still being on the mountain at night) and have a much more enjoyable time.Acclimatisation is often underestimated and/or misunderstood. Sign up to our newsletter. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports. Receive news on latest arrivals, events and regular roundups.